By Annie Zulu
By
6:00 AM, the black market in Nakonde is already alive. Footsteps pound the
dusty ground, traders shout out their best deals, and shop shutters rattle open
in rhythmic unison. It’s the sound of a border town in motion, and at the heart
of it are the women crossing from Tanzania each day, chasing opportunity one
sale at a time.
One
of the first to set up shop is Zakia Hussian Salehe, 30, who carefully lines up
men’s shirts at her stall. She’s not Zambian, but you wouldn’t know it. For the
past three years, she’s made the daily journey from Tunduma, just across the
border in Tanzania, to run her now-thriving business.
“Zambia
gives us room to grow. I’ve never had problems here. I pay my taxes, I speak
Bemba, and the people treat me like one of their own,” she says, her voice full
of pride.
A
Border Town in Motion
Zakia
is not alone. She’s part of a growing wave of Tanzanian women who are powering
Nakonde’s informal economy. Armed with hustle, resilience, and an eye for
opportunity, these women are turning cross-border trade into a pathway for financial
freedom.
“This
business helps me support my family. Women need to be independent. We can’t
always rely on our husbands. We have to stand on our own,” Zakia says.
In
the past, cross-border trade on the Zambian side was largely dominated by
Tanzanian men. In recent years, however, an increasing number of women have
entered the space, some even choosing to migrate permanently.
Zakia Hussain Salehe, Tanzanian trader, sits in her shop in Nakonde, Zambia, where she sells men’s clothes- Photo by Annie Zulu
While Tanzanian women dominate Nakonde’s informal retail trade today, selling clothes, food, and cooked meals and deeply integrating into local communities, Tanzanian men tend to operate behind the scenes in wholesale, transport, and logistics.
A
few blocks away, Noweriya Musa, 42, is busy stacking oranges on a street
corner. She’s been selling fruits in Nakonde for four years and, like Zakia,
makes the daily trek from Tunduma.
“On
a good day, I make over K500 ($19). This town is always busy. Travelers,
traders, workers, they need food to keep going. Sometimes my stock finishes so
fast, I have to go back for more that same day,” she says.
Noweriya
Musa, Tanzanian trader, smiles warmly at a customer as she balances a basin of
oranges on her head in the streets of Nakonde.
It’s
hard work, but for Noweriya, the effort is worth it.
“I
love it here. The people are kind, business is good, and I’ve never had any
issues. It’s like a second home.”
Over
at the town’s buzzing bus station, the scent of spiced rice fills the air.
That’s Anna Richard Sinkala, 32, another Tanzanian trader, dishing out hot
meals to station workers and travelers heading to other parts of Zambia. She’s
up before sunrise and at her stall by 6:00 AM every morning.
A
Sisterhood Across Borders
“I’ve
made friends with the Zambian women here. We live like sisters. We help each
other. Zambia feels like home to me now,” Anna says with a smile.
And
the sisterhood goes both ways. Zambian traders and consumers have not only
welcomed the Tanzanian women, but they’ve grown with them.
Catherine
Nakaona, 48, a Zambian trader who sells clothes in Nakonde’s Black Market, says
Tanzanian women have brought more than just goods across the border; they’ve
brought knowledge, culture, and new ways of doing business.
“We
do business with Tanzanians, and we’ve even learned how to speak Swahili.
They’ve taught us a lot about doing business. I used to speak only Bemba and
Nyanja, but now I speak Swahili so well that people think I’m from Tanzania,”
she says.
Margaret
Nyondo, 47, a fruit seller at the main bus station, echoes her sentiment.
“In
this station, it’s a mix of Zambians and Tanzanians. We work well together and
help each other out. Most of our food, the bananas, potatoes, and rice, comes
from Tanzania. Sometimes, they even give it to us on credit, and we pay after
selling. They are good people, and we live like sisters,” she says.
Tanzania
is widely recognized for its strong agricultural sector, known internationally
for producing crops like coffee, tea, cashews, and bananas.
Outside
the market, Tanzanian women are making an impact. Kantapi Sichilima, 45, a
local bus driver, appreciates the convenience they bring.
“These
women have made life easier for us. We don’t need to travel to Tanzania for
bananas anymore; they bring them right here. And the prices are the same,” he
said.
The
Competition and Lessons Learned
But not everyone sees the Tanzanian traders as a blessing. Some Zambian traders feel they’re being pushed out, and Josephine Chileshe, 46, a fruit seller at Wembley Bus Station, doesn’t hide her frustration.
“Sometimes,
I only have K70 ($3) worth of fruit. Then a Tanzanian woman shows up with K400
($15) worth, and she still manages to sell everything before me,” she says,
shaking her head.
She
lets out a small laugh. “Meanwhile, I’m sitting here with my few bananas,
waiting all day to sell.”
Josephine
admits that her Tanzanian counterparts seem to know how to attract customers
better.
“They’re
smart with business, I won’t lie. They’ve built loyal customers, they talk
well, and they don’t wait; they go after buyers.”
Then
she adds, laughing a little more:
“Sometimes,
you’re talking to someone, and boom! A Tanzanian lady comes in, charms them,
and they’re buying from her.”
Even
though it feels tough at times, Josephine says there’s something to learn.
“Maybe
we Zambians need to improve our hustle. These ladies are better prepared,” she
said.
Policies,
Permits, and Unequal Borders
Zambia’s
favorable trade policies have played a significant role in facilitating
cross-border trade, especially for small-scale and migrant traders.
The
Simplified Trade Regime (STR), implemented under the Common Market for Eastern
and Southern Africa (COMESA), allows traders to benefit from preferential
tariffs and simplified customs procedures for consignments below a certain value.
The
Zambian Department of Immigration also allows visa-free entry for Tanzanian
nationals for up to 90 days, making travel and trade easier.
Zambian
President Hakainde Hichilema and Tanzanian President Samia Suluhu Hassan have
actively engaged in discussions to enhance free trade and regional integration
between their nations.
However,
Tanzania’s strict policies make it difficult for Zambian traders to operate
across the border. Zambian women attempting to sell in Tunduma face strict
municipal by-laws that prohibit informal vending by foreigners, along with high
permit requirements and frequent harassment.
Mercy
Namfukwe, 35, a Zambian fruit vendor, says she would love to trade in Tunduma
but is barred from doing so.
“We
only go there to order our goods. They don’t allow us to sell,” she explains.
According
to the 2023 International Organization for Migration (IOM) Zambia Field Report,
Tanzanian municipal authorities do not allow foreigners to trade in open-air
markets without
a
local trading license, a regulation that disproportionately affects Zambian
women who are mostly small-scale traders and often cannot afford that license.
Nakonde
Chamber of Commerce President Thomas Botha echoes this concern.
“For
our friends on the Tanzanian side, it’s a very complex issue. You’ll find many
Tanzanian traders here in Nakonde, but you’ll never find a Zambian trading in
Tunduma. Our laws are more favorable. There’s a serious trade imbalance.
“We
would love to see harmonization, where the laws that allow Tanzanian women to
trade here are also extended to our Zambian women on the other side,” he says.
Veronica
Singolo, 42, a Tanzanian clothing trader who has been selling in Nakonde for
nearly five years, now lives in Zambia and is married to a Zambian national.
She says currency fluctuations have made it difficult to maintain profit
margins.
“The
Zambian Kwacha has dropped in value several times. When that happens, our
suppliers in Tanzania don’t lower their prices, but here, customers want to pay
less; it’s a loss either way. If we raise prices, customers complain or don’t
buy. If we don’t, we barely make enough,” she says, folding brightly colored
dresses at her stall.
Unsung
Economic Backbone
While
specific gender-disaggregated data for Nakonde is unavailable, regional trends
indicate that migrant women from Tanzania make up a significant share of
cross-border traders. Their contributions are particularly evident in times of
crisis.
Amid
recent droughts in Zambia, for instance, these women have played a vital role
in maintaining access to nutritious food. Through their businesses, they also
create jobs and livelihoods, like bike riders who transport their goods back
and forth.
Precious
Nachona, Information Desk Officer for the Cross-Border Traders Association
(CBTA) in Nakonde, says about 70% of small-scale cross-border traders in
Nakonde are women.
She
describes women in cross-border trade as unsung heroes of regional trade.
“These
women are the backbone of cross-border trade. They play a critical role in food
security and job creation. Most of them reinvest their earnings into their
families and communities. Supporting them means strengthening the entire
economy,” Nachona says.
“We’re
working to ensure they are recognized, respected, and supported. When women
trade, communities thrive.”
Nakonde
District Administrative Officer (DAO) Alex Sinkala also acknowledges the
crucial role of these women in cross-border dynamics.
“Tanzanian
women traders play a vital role in both the economy and daily life here in
Nakonde. They are not just selling goods; they help feed our communities with
the farm produce they bring. They create jobs and keep trade flowing across the
border. Without them, our markets would be smaller and less efficient.
“They
also help connect our cultures and smooth cross-border relations in ways that
formal institutions often struggle to do. For example, many of them speak both
Swahili and local Zambian languages, making trade easier and more personal,”
Mr. Sinkala said.
He
further stressed the importance of continued bilateral cooperation between
Zambia and Tanzania to create more inclusive policies, improve border
facilities, and provide financial, and training support aimed at empowering
women in cross-border trade.
Queens
of the Border
As
the sun sets over the Nakonde border, the women begin to pack up, ready to
cross back into Tunduma or head home in town. Their day may be over, but their
impact lingers in every corner shop, every bus station meal, and every market
stall.
In
this border town, they are not just traders. They are queens without crowns
trading beyond limits and rewriting the rules of regional trade one hustle at a
time.
This story
was produced
as part of the Move Africa project, commissioned by the African Union
Commission and supported by the Deutsche Gesellschaft fur Internationale
Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) GmbH. The views and opinions expressed are those of the
authors only and do not necessarily reflect those of the GIZ or the African
Union.
Watch the Nakonde Border Queens documentary
below to witness the women driving trade and connection across one of East
Africa’s busiest crossings, one sale, one sisterhood, one sunrise at a time: